1 The
imposing building (ca. 1886) of T.H.
Roberts is a remarkably well preserved
ironmonger's which still has its original
fittings. At the turn of the century over 500 gold
miners were employed around Dolgellau; many of their
picks and shovels must have come from here. A much
older building, Cwrt Plas yn Dre, once
stood on the site, and was reputedly a meeting place
for the famous Welsh rebel Owain Glyndwr who
temporarily controlled mucy of Wales in the early
1400s. Despite being the town's chief tourist
attraction, the building was demolished in 1881.
Parts were re-erected in Newtown.
2 By the mid 19th century
Dolgellau had its own gas supply produced from
burning coal. The retort house
remains, though its chimney stack has been removed
and slated over. Gas was stored in gasometers behind
the works. The small building to the right was the
governor house.
3 Arguably
the finest architect designed building in the town,
the County Hall, was built in 1825
at a cost of £3,000. The architect was Edward
Haycock. This was the administrative headquarters of
Meirionnydd in the 19th century. Its role as a court
house continues to this day. The porches were filled
in in 1995, spoiling the simple elegance of the
building. The slate in front is something of a
mystery. At first sight it appears to be a
milestone; the mileage figures were, however, carved
at a later date. It may have originally recorded
stagecoach fares.
4 The
bridge was built in 1638 (the date is on the
downstream side) and has since been widened and
extended. It is called Y Bont Fawr
(the Big Bridge) to distinguish it from a smaller
bridge that lay just to the south. Dolgellau has
suffered from many floods. One major flood in 1903
destroyed part of the bridge. The top end of Bont
Fawr was raised to accommodate the railway which ran
on the line of the present bypass. The station was
just upstream of the bridge. Initially (1868)
through-passengers were obliged to change as two
rival railway companies, each with its own terminus,
met here. The journey from London took eight and a
half hours in the 1870s. By the 1930s it was down to
five and a half hours, a journey time it would be
hard to equal by today's public transport.
5 The
now defunct Golden Lion Inn was
once a coaching inn. The stagecoach journey from
London took about twenty-four hours ca. 1830. It
became the premier hotel of the area and was an
obligatory stopping point for any passing European
royals.
6 One of the very few
brick buildings in Dolgellau and unique for
its period (early 19th century). Note that the
bricks were only used on the principal elevation.
7 The
Old Town Hall (Y Sosban), dated 1606, once
fulfilled the judicial and administrative functions
of the town. Two dungeon-like rooms downstairs
served as a lock-up for vagrants and drunkards. Now
its used as a Cafe and Bistro Restaurant popular
with locals and visitors.
8 The present Church
(St Mary) dates from 1716, with a chancel
added in 1864. The masonry is, unusually, of dressed
slate with blocks overlapping at the corners,
log-cabin style. The timber piers inside were
brought over the mountains by ox-cart from Dinas
Mawddwy. A carved stone effigy (ca. 1350) of Meurig
ap Ynyr Fychan lies in the NE corner of the church.
The first mention of the church and indeed of
Dolkelew is from 1253. The Cistercian Cymer Abbey
(founded 1198) two miles away, was the main
religious centre and a major influence until its
suppression in 1536.
9 Tan
y Fynwent This fine town house dating from
the late 17th century was the rector's residence at
one time and was possibly built as such. Note the
unusual positioning of the chimneys and the
19th-century lattice-work porch. Such porches are
one of the characteristic architectural features of
the town.
10 Dolgellau's
own pyramid, a monument to local bard and
schoolteacher Dafydd Ionawr (1750-1827).
11 The Marian
Dolgellau's main green space and one of its greatest
assets, was given in trust to the town in 1811. It
has been the focus of the town's leisure activities
for generations. By the 16th century there was a
bowling green surrounded by ditches to keep out
grazing animals. It lay under the car park. A hollow
in the grass in the cricket outfield marks the site
of a cockpit. The stone circle was set up in 1948 to
proclaim the National Eisteddfod of Wales the
following year. Using stone-age technology for
advertising in this way is a peculiarly Welsh
phenomenon.
12 The
Lawnt is the historical centre of
Dolgellau. We can imagine the first settlement grew
up around the slightly raised ground in the area of
the Church. The Lawnt is now a residential area but
as you walk through you will see evidence of former
commercial activity such a shop windows. Hope House
(no.4) on your right was a woollen factory. A little
further up the road on the left, the building with
the tall window was Dolgellau's first bank,
established in 1803.
13 The
former police station dates from
the mid 19th century. Its delicate Gothic windows
present a very different image of the law from that
of the modern police headquarters across the river.
14 The toll house
of the former turnpike road to Tywyn. The toll
keeper's viewing window can be seen in the right
hand corner of the gable elevation, with the stone
post for the tollgate adjacent.
Each
of the roads from the town was turnpiked at one
stage. Turnpikes were extremely unpopular in Wales
and caused riots in the 1830s.
15 At the height of the
religious revival at the beginning of the 20th
century Dolgellau had about ten chapels.
Their services, Sunday schools, prayer meetings and
bible readings were a major social focus of the
town. In 1829 the Sunday School at Salem Chapel had
400 children and 71 teachers. The main chapels were
largely rebuilt in the late 19th century (Tabernacl
1868, Salem 1893, Ebenezer 1880, Judah 1839/1928).
Several chapels have been converted to other uses
recently; a post office, a theatre, a dental
surgery.
16 The
large stones embedded at the foot
of the wall on the left protected it from the hubs
of passing carts.
17 The cast-iron gates
to Bryn Ffynnon which you pass on the right were
made in Wolverhampton in the late 19th century. Bryn
Mair, the adjacent house a little further up the
hill, also has a grand entrance. The finely dressed
gate pillars of the intractable local dolerite are a
testament to the craftsmanship and patience of the
mason.
18 Viewpoint
over the town. Most of the prominent buildings
outside the historic centre are publicly owned. The
mountain in the background to the far right is Aran
Fawddwy. Moel Offrwm is directly opposite, and Y
Garn and Diffwys lie to the left beyond the Mawddach
estuary.
19 Ffynnon Plas Ucha
is one of several springs in this part of town. Now
almost forgotten, this perennial source of clean
water used to be an important resource for local
residents.
20 Y Domen Fawr
(Meyrick Square). The name suggests a dump or mound
once stood here. In the early 19th century it was a
crowded warren of little houses, workshops, shops
and "tippling houses". The population density of the
whole town used to be much higher. The 1801 census
recorded 2,949 inhabitants. Today the population is
slightly lower but there are at least twice as many
dwellings.
21 Tan
y Gader The birth place of many Dolgellau
folk, this house (built ca. 1800) was used
as a maternity home. The unusual wheel window in the
attic gable can be seen in several houses of similar
age in the area. Note the pretty dormer bargeboards.
22 The Catholic Church,
completed in 1966, was the fulfillment of a
lifetime's dreams and efforts by local priest
Francis Scalpell to have a more noble structure for
his church than a former chip shop. The Maltese
Cross to the left of the west door commemorates his
Maltese origins.
23 Fro Awel
is a typical vernacular cottage. The design, with
its low roof and hipped dormer windows, is typical
of the mid 17th century to mid 18th century. The
rear wing was once a candle factory to supply the
gold mines.
24 Siop y Seren
was built in 1800 partly for commercial use with a
shop extension added later. Note the stone bridge at
the back on the second floor. This gave weavers
access to the loom rooms in the upper two storeys.
25 Wtra Plas Coch
The name wtra, used for a narrow
lane, comes from the Shropshire word "out-track", a
farm road. The Unicorn and Plas Coch (to its right)
were built around 1700. Originally they had steeply
pitched roofs with dormers and tall chimneys. In the
early 1800s the roof level was raised (see gable end
of Plas Coch). The Clifton Hotel, next door, was
rebuilt around 1820 from the old town jail
(1716-1813). John Howard, the penal reformer,
visited the jail in 1774 and commented on its filthy
state. Little had improved by 1788, when prisoners
petitioned about the maggots and "nasty filth" in
the water which came from the river Aran where sheep
skins were washed.
26 Bwthyn
Pont yr Aran A vernacular cottage of the
17th century. Note the roof details: the slates laid
in diminishing courses and the inset stone slabs to
shed the water away from the base of the chimney
stacks. These are a common feature in Dolgellau,
which enjoys an annual rainfall of around 70 inches.
The ground floor is below road level. This is also
true of the older buildings along Wtra'r Felin,
which leads from here to the church. Perhaps this
was the site of the road that led east to the centre
of the town. The buildings behind housed a
fellmongering business, where sheep pelt were
processed. The business closed in 1989. thus ending
the long tradition of processing wool and
sheep-hides in the town.
27 The
present bridge is built on top
of its much narrower predecessor. The view from
here is tranquil today but two hundred years
ago it would have been very different. The Aran
was the power source that drove the fulling
machinery and later the carding and the spinning
mills. There were several fulling mills along
its banks where the cloth was beaten and washed
to close up the fibres. Tour writers of this
time talk of the streams "resounding" with the
sound of the pounding wooden mallets, and of the
tenter racks where the cloth was then dried and
bleached "extending along the hills". The
lengths of hand-woven cloth, called webs,
were around two hundred yards long.
28 The
Square: meeting place, market place,
trading place, and the venue for fairs,
community events and festivals. It contains
several buildings of interest. Eldon Row to your
right as you look up the Square was built in
1810. It was named for Lord Eldon who won a
lawsuit for the local squire.
Neuadd
Idris above it was built in ca. 1870 as
a market hall (now converted to shops) with
assemby rooms above. Plas Newydd, at the top of
the Square, dates from the17th century, with the
bays facing the Square added around 1800.
Central Buildings, to your left, was formerly a
warehouse and shop for the locally produced
tweed. Ty Meirion used to be called London
House. It was an emporium for goods from a
London merchant. Many Welsh towns have their
London, Liverpool or Manchester House. If you go
round the back of the building you can still see
the hoist and loading bay on the third floor. Ty
Meirion now houses a display on the Quakers.
Their strong faith led to persecution and many
left to start a new life in Pennsylvania. The
famous American women's university of Bryn Mawr
derives its name from a Quaker farmhouse just
above the town. |
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